Guide to the use of hydroxy acids in cosmetic products

Classes of HA, cosmetic applications and technical advice for the development of products containing hydroxy acids.

Guide to the use of hydroxy acids in cosmetic products

Classes of HA, cosmetic applications and technical advice for the development of products containing hydroxy acids.
6 December 2023

Guide to the use of hydroxy acids in cosmetic products

Hydroxy acids (HA) are a class of highly effective ingredients widely used in skincare and haircare products. They can be found in exfoliating lotions, products for acne-prone skin and anti-ageing products.

The most frequently used classes are a-hydroxy acids, b-hydroxy acids and the more recent poly-hydroxy acids, better known as AHA, BHA and PHA.

Some of them are also known as fruit acids because they occur naturally: citric acid in citrus fruit, malic acid in apples, and glycolic acid in sugar cane.

Usage rates vary widely from product to product, starting from 1-2% in cleansers and moisturisers and reaching 70% in exfoliants for professional dermatological use.

These ingredients not only detach surface cells but perform a deep action. Their action slows down the cohesion of corneocytes and stimulates cell proliferation, for firm, radiant skin.

Formulators wishing to incorporate them into new formulations must be well acquainted with their characteristics in order to make the most of their cosmetic properties and use them safely. At high concentrations they can cause reddening and irritation of the skin; pH levels that are too acidic can cause chemical burns with damage to the deeper layers of the epidermis. They also increase UV sensitivity, so they are usually not recommended in summer or for use in combination with sunscreen.

This guide provides:

  • An overview of the most frequently used HA classes
  • A describing their cosmetic applications
  • A table  with useful information for the development of products containing HAs.

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